They include: Saxony: A fine, soft tweed usually using merino wool. Also, if you're finding this interesting or helpful, please help other people find it. Plain Twill: This is a simple weave with a diagonal pattern running throughout. Donegal tweed is named for the Irish county of Donegal, where it originated. This pattern is more common in tweed than it is in any other fabric. It is a very lively pattern. Overcheck Twill: A plain twill with a large checked design overlaid in contrasting color. Tweed also became popular among the 19th-century Victorian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the aristocracy. A thornproof tweed is woven with high twist fibers to make the cloth tough and resistant to tears and punctures. Two of the main families of tweeds are Clan Tartan Tweeds and Estate Tweeds, but what’s the difference? JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. This photo of an Irish golfer from 1915 gives an idea of what it was like. Herringbone has an iconic triangular pattern with varying tones. It was worn for virtually every sporting and adventure endeavor including golf, cycling, tennis, motoring, and mountain climbing. Our series covers. The descriptions “Scottish,” “Welsh,” “Cheviot,” “Saxony,” “Harris,” “Yorkshire,” “Donegal,” and “West of A veritable lost treasure of 8,000 iterations of the cloth. Other types of tweed are defined by a variety of things, from location to sheep to functionality. And factory workers were laid off. The fabric generally tends to be either plain-weave, twill or herringbone. #4 Harris Tweed This is heavy weight tweed made from pure wool that comes from the Scottish Isles of Barra, Levis and the Outer Hebrides. Back in the day, the British Bladen company provided the marvelous 700 grams Supasax tweed, which was a fantastic piece of Saxony Tweed. Tweed’s estate sporting background is the primary reason we have so many variations of patterns and colors today. Blue with white sprinkles and crimson in color, it was no coincidence that it looks gray from afar resembling the granite mountains of Aberdeenshire around Balmoral because it was designed for deer stalking in the area. This produces a thick material that is bright and lustrous and quite soft, but also fairly stiff and even sharp to the touch. This means there is no 'typical' tweed: the material ranges from plain and lightweight to colourful and heavy, covering everything in-between. This imperative, driven by social rivalry between estate owners to brag about successful days out with their guests, underpins much of the variability of tweed designs that survive to this day. Checked: A pattern of horizontal and vertical lines that create small squares. Clothing made out of Harris Tweed will have trade mark label sewn into it. Checked tweed has the typical checkerboard pattern that’s so common in many types of apparel. Although eminently suited for its original outdoor purpose as well as any cool weather casual occasion, it can certainly be worn in the city today especially in less formal environments or on the weekends. Note: we charge in UK Pounds. But the variety of distinctive patterns, colours, and weaves found in Estate Tweeds endows modern tweed producers and purchasers with an almost endless choice. Soon after that he cut the number of Harris Tweed patterns from 8000 to just 4. And as local wool production in the Outer Hebrides was also too low to satisfy the industry's needs, the rules were amended to allow fleece from elsewhere in the UK. When was tweed invented? And it also specifies that Harris Tweed must be hand-woven by human power alone, which takes place in islanders' homes. There are 3 main types of tweed cloth and these are silk tweed, Donegal tweed and Harris Tweed. Houndstooth: This pattern resembles the back teeth of a dog and was found to be a very effective form of camouflage. Its rustic outdoor heritage makes it a very democratic cloth, suitable for wear for all classes. Others are named after their function, such as Gamekeeper's Tweed, or Thornproof Tweed. Mr. Haggas with his four styles of tweed coats. Tweed was the ideal sporting attire of the 19th and early 20th-century gentleman and as such it was the performance fabric of its time. Striped: Striped tweeds incorporate vertical line to create visible stripes of various sizes. We'll take a brief look at each, to help you choose from our world-leading choice of quality tweed fabrics and tweed products from the British Isles. Taking advantage of these properties, this is often woven into a tight, thin tweed. But the yarn is no longer hand spun. It can be found in a variety of patterns, weaves, and colors. typically have a windowpane check, often over a herringbone pattern, and can be woven either as plain or twill weave. These groupings can of course overlap. Some names refer to their geographical origin, like Harris Tweed or Donegal Tweed. A third set of tweeds are designated by the breed of sheep that goes to produce their wool. These animals are still reared on the Shetland Isles though much Shetland wool also comes from further afield so you may wish to check if this matters to you. So today lighter Harris Tweeds more suitable for modern tailoring have been developed, popular with leading designers. Chinos could also work if the tweed is a lighter weight. Although by name at least tweed first originated in Scotland, various regions of the British Isles produce high quality tweed fabrics. Tweed is a sort of “umbrella” fabric, with various different styles under that umbrella. www.indiandentalacademy.com Little details like collar closures, leather buttons, and hacking (slanted) pockets all add to the distinctiveness of the look. Weekends are great for tweed. This periodic “return to tweed” not only helps keep the tradition of tweed alive, but also serves to inject new life and energy into this iconic cloth. Sporting tweeds share much in common with Gamekeeper Tweeds. Unlike Harris Tweed whose provenance has been closely protected, Donegal tweed never achieved such status. You can even find people who wear matching accessories with their bespoke tweed suits, which can look rather sophisticated. Polo & Tweed are highly experienced at matching the right housekeeper to the specific property and the needs of the family or individual. One story that illustrates this enthusiasm to determine the most effective camouflage comes from the Strathconon Estate. It can be found in many patterns, weaves, and hues. Indeed it is so unique that its production is regulated by a special Act of Parliament of 1909, which allows it only to be woven in the cottages of the Islanders themselves. Cheviot fibre is generally thicker, coarser, and heavier than yarns that go into other tweeds. This is one of the most popular types of tweed in the world, and it is distinguished by its rainbow-colored specks of yarn throughout the knobby surface. An innovation in recent years has been the development of tweeds marketed as 'super soft'. It drapes well and holds a crease. This variety gives modern-day tweed wearers plenty of options from which to choose. The pattern is quite pleasing to the eye. True country tweed suits are hard-wearing, long-lasting garments. It’s […], […] looks great with a formal double-breasted suit, it can also work with single-breasted suits and a tweed […], A unique windowpane tweed suit with cuffs, Quilted tweed jacket with burgundy suede gloves, Brown Donegal Tweed with Donegal Tie, Silk Pocket Square and Edelweiss by Fort Belvedere, Want to learn more? The problem was, nobody bought the jackets. As such they include tweeds produced at our own heritage mill, DC Dalgliesh of Selkirk. These heritage fabrics are typically woven using several shades of dyed wool. Just rub the damaged area together and the fibres may magically heal. As the church's grip loosened, the King of Spain sent a small herd of these sheep to his cousin in Saxony in 1765. Saxony Tweed is notable for a short pile and a particularly fine and soft texture. It is extremely practical for hunting or hiking through thick underbrush, brambles, and gorse. A few years ago this wonderful heritage seemed destined to be lost, when a businessman bought and 'rationalised' the industry down to a handful of designs, which you can read more about in our history of tweed. Shop a variety of woven Tweed fabrics that will satisfy even the most selective of projects. Hi. A more popular legend has it that the name tweed is a twist on the Scottish word for “tweel” or twill in our parlance, which is the signature weave of the fabric. The variety of patterns and colors of tweed found, today, owe much to the originality of those 19th-century estate owners. Unfortunately, there was not enough wool from the Outer Hebrides to meet the demand, and hence 100% virgin wool from the UK is accepted now. Saxony Tweed has a fine, short pile on its face and is very soft. These faster looms required more regular yarns than were possible with hand-spinning. Unless woven or blended with a notably soft fibre such as goes into cashmere tweeds, there is usually an element of hype in this description. As far as the name goes, there are a couple of theories. In practice this means a considerable number of mills producing quality fabrics and specialist fabrics, which can still compete on their own terms against low-cost overseas producers. For variation, your capsule might include, say, a blue blazer, an earthy harris tweed in green or brown, and perhaps a grey cashmere jacket. Instead, choose pastel colors or patterned flannel shirts in Super 80s rather than a super 200s, because not only are they more in line with the country heritage, they also look better. The diversity of its use makes it a popular choice for many garment types including tweed jackets and overcoats, trousers, breeks, caps, bags and even footwear. The name is derived from the Irish county of Donegal. Its history began with sumptuary laws in the Middle Ages, which banned Christian parts of Spain from exporting their Merino sheep or wool. It is made with a heavier weight of fabric for ultimate insulation during long days out in the cold. Soon a special organization was created, which was engaged in the protection of the fabric market from tweed falsification. It’s the most common type of tweed fabric. This law defined what wool could be used, and where it could be woven. To regulate and protect the fabric against imitations, the Harris Tweed Orb certification mark was created in 1909—the oldest British mark of its kind—with the definition, “only tweeds woven in the Outer Hebrides would be eligible.” The use of the name was protected, and only hand-spun and hand-woven products of 100% wool form the Outer Hebrides was allowed to use the Harris Tweed trade mark. The yarns are spun in a few mills, to which the woven fabric is also returned for finishing and certification. It is the epitome of a casual tweed. And it can produce quite a delicate and even slightly shaggy finish. Plain Herringbone: Herringbone is so named because it looks like fish bones. Although there were 7 million yards of Harris Tweed woven in 1966, by 2006 the amount was down to 700,000. Twill has a simple, diagonal pattern. Tweed truly was the cloth for all things sports and outdoors back in the day. Today the Irish industry centres on beautiful County Donegal, which lends this fabric its name. And it can of course be dyed and woven for any pattern. We wouldn't call Shetland wools exceptionally fine. It is typically loose-textured, soft and supple, but also quite coarse. Tweed is the general category that includes both varieties. Saxony tweed – manufactured in the UK from high quality merino wool initially obtained in Saxony, Germany. Although the future of Harris Tweed has been irrevocably altered from that of its pastoral heritage, it remains an essential part of the sartorial landscape. As camouflage is typically of importance to estate workers, Gamekeepers Tweed tends to take its design cues from Scotland's natural landscape. This wool is generally quite tightly woven as a woollen fabric, not worsted. It was first used in 1870 in the Red River Rebellion in Canada, where troops wore a cloth made to resist the thorns. These would cover most bases. The following discussion will help to make some sense of all this. If you prefer a traditional look, but with a softer, more lightly woven tweed, you may want to take a look at Breanish Tweeds, who are known for their lightweight versions that are also gentle and fluffy to the touch. The very recognisable quality of Harris Tweed is much inspired by the wild nature of these islands. These should be mostly self-explanatory. Tweeds are classified by source or kind in three distinct ways. This distinction between the leisure-based, earthy colored tweed and business focused grey, dark blue, and black suits perhaps gave rise to the so-called “no brown in town” rule, which has mostly gone by the wayside with the possible exception of London. To complicate matters, the seemly limitless variety of Harris Tweed fabrics—and the cottage industry itself—was very nearly wiped out with a capitalistic wave of the hand. Keep in mind too that a new tweed jacket or suit will require some break-in time. And every piece you buy helps this wonderful tradition to survive, whilst you enjoy a fabric that is literally like nothing else on earth. Harris: The most famous brand named Tweed is of course Harris. The Glenfeshie was modified from a basic black and white check worn by the estate’s shepherds overlaid with a red windowpane and is the early relative of the “gun club” pattern. For many the name tweed conjures up an image of Harris Tweed. Sometimes Saxony uses a mix of woollen and worsted fibres, which can make it appropriate for suits. Apart from that, there are endless ways to wear tweeds. Overcheck Herringbone (Estate Tweed): This pattern consists of a herringbone weave overlaid with a check in various colors. Because Tweed is inherently a cool weather fabric it goes well with autumn, cold-weather golfing, the opening of bird season, fall run trout and crisp winter days. On the other hand, tweed is not ideally suited for classic white collar business outfits or more formal evening events. The result of this research was the establishment of the norm for the FMA as 25* and the normal variation of that angle is 16* to 35*. But the hairier, rougher quality could feel quite scratchy against the skin. Although it sounds like another geographical tweed, in fact Shetland tweed refers to the breed of sheep from which its wool is produced which is then sold worldwide. Its warmth and water repellant properties make it perfect for cooler climates or weather. It’s easy to get confused about types of tweed. The name of course describes the quality of tweed material, and not any particular pattern. You can get an idea of the color variety from the picture of the Scottish landscape above. Avoid oxfords as they are more formal and definitely don’t wear black shoes. Also, the jacket styles are more limited. For long, damp centuries, tweed was a peasant cloth that was appropriated for use by the landed gentry on their estates. And if the fabric is ever torn or holed, it can be self-repairing. So they may well be suited to tweed garments or furnishings where a sophisticated feel is desired. Tweed is made of tightly woven dyed wool. So please read on. It is so tough that some tailors refer to it as "ball proof" (let's assume they mean gun shot) though that's probably overstatement. Despite the legal protection, Harris Tweed still had to compete in the marketplace. Though tweed first originated in Scotland, quality tweeds are also produced in England, Wales, and Ireland. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Highland Tweeds tend to be quite regular and finely finished (though each fabric has its own unique character, so this is just a generality). If you're looking at this data to prepare a housing strategy, learn more here. This evolving practicality was famously marked around the zenith of Harris Tweed's popularity by its use in a special range of Nike shoes. Although these patterns were once restricted only to family members and workers of the estate—much like the regimental tie or school crest—today anyone can wear them. Some view tweed as an itchy, stuffy, stodgy fabric only worn by aging northeastern college professors or by English gentry in the Scottish dells. So they may well be suited to tweed garments or furnishings where a sophisticated feel is desired. Donegal tweed can be hand-woven or power loomed. However, the Club modified the tweed using two alternating darker colors together with the white of the Shepherd check thereby templating what is now known as the Gun Club check. First established in 1883, and still using old Victorian looms, our Islay Tweed mill has designed and produced plaids for many Hollywood blockbuster movies, including Braveheart starring Mel Gibson (the Braveheart Plaid fabric is available to purchase) Forrest Gump starring Tom Hanks, Rob Roy starring Liam Neeson, Far and Away starring Tom Cruise, and many more. There are reports of people throwing their traditional tweed jackets against a wall to soften it up. Tweed comes in a variety of patterns and weavers that contribute to the look and durability of the fabric. Today, tweed is the fabric of choice for vintage bicyclists, especially a modern-day cycling Tweed Run. In these articles about understanding tweed we explore how tweed is produced, defined and used, and how its contemporary symbolism developed. If you decide to go with an odd jacket made of tweed, there are several good options for pants. The direction of the slant alternates column by column to create ‘v’ shapes. tweed: [noun] marijuana. Tweed is as close to British national dress as you might get. #5 Gamekeeper Tweed:- Pocket squares should not be white but should complement your outfit with earthy or muted fall colors. And weavers had nothing to weave. Highland Tweeds tend to be quite regular and finely finished (though each fabric has its own unique character, so this is just a generality). Whatever the origin, tweed is a rugged fabric, resistant to wind and water with excellent insulating properties. And let’s not forget the classic tweed driving cap favored by rally racers and golfers of yore. A tweed jacket can be dressed up or down, from fairly formal to definitely casual. Recognizing the dilemma, New York real-estate magnate Alan Bain set out to save what was left of a mortally wounded industry and bought one of the remaining Harris Tweed Mills. Tweed is very popular for suiting and jackets, which were originally made out of the material for hunting activities. Early golfers such as Old Tom Morris only played in tweed “plus fours,” and the wear of tweed for golf was nearly ubiquitous up until the 1930’s when summer flannel pants and polos starting becoming more popular. Converted prices are advisory, at today's rates. Its open weave gave the fabric a naturally stretchy and almost spongy texture. It is used to produce comfortably wearing Merino-based sport jackets and to some extent, suits. Tweeds are classified by source or kind in three distinct ways. Also, a huge stash of vintage Harris Tweed, including experimental types, was found languishing in a portside warehouse, there discarded by Haggas as unnecessary. But Shetland Tweed is notably softer and more delicate than cheviot, or even spongey. Few customers for whom softness is the main consideration look to tweeds as their first choice. Harris Tweed has an open, loose twill weave that is rough to the touch. Saxony tweed. In this buyer's guide to tweeds we explore how tweed is produced, defined and used, and how its symbolism developed historically. Tweed is the home of Tweed & Company Theatre, a critically acclaimed producer of original Canadian musical theatre. Thornproof tweed was first recorded in Canada, where troops at the 1870 Red River Rebellion wore this fabric that had been specially made to repel the thorns that were prevalent in the area. Harris Tweed: From Land to Street, Lara Platman, Frances Lincoln, 2011, Scottish Estate Tweeds, E.P. An interesting feature of the thornproof tweed is that it is a self-repairing cloth. Border tweeds are available in a range of weights. The whole series covers the history of tweed, then types or sources of tweed; then tweed patterns; then tweed materials; and finally wearing tweed. 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